Pictured above is part of the measurements needed to compute Compression Ratio.. This is a critical part of the engine assembly procedures.. Skipping this step can have catastrophic effects to your engine..
I resurface the cylinder seating surfaces on the side of the block. This makes for a perfect assembly so that the cylinders fit into the block and the cylinder heads in perfect order.
Also the flywheel has been resurfaced. "BALANCING" an engine is very important- but I only go to this step if the customer can afford it.
This is the completed “LongBlock”.. Everything from valve cover to valve cover.
Pictured is a new cylinder head in my vertical mill where I make sure that the machine surfaces are perfect..
Fitting the crankshaft and the camshaft perfectly is critical.
I have brand new engine blocks and a very limited amount of nice “original” blocks. The picture shows a really nice AS-41 (“AM” Serial numbered) original case with bus mounts. I have my blocks acid cleaned at the Airport Machine Shop in San Antonio- a special chemical dip mostly used for aircraft engines. Then I alignbore the block with my specially modified tooling.. This step is extremely important.
(Especially if you are trying to build an engine that will go 100K miles.)
Final assembly of the “shortblock” includes setting the flywheel end-play perfectly always with a new gland nut and washer, and then installing a “full flow oil pump-filter assembly”.. This one is from CB Performance and it is the best one on the market.. Just drain the oil and replace the filter. That is all there is to a oil change.
Type 1 Beetle Engines—READ THIS CAREFULLY!
THIS IS HOW I BUILD A "VW AIR-COOLED ENGINE"